Fixing CenterBoard

I know its been partly discussed but if anyone could help me out that would be great. My centreboard at the back has a fairly large chip out of it, i got it with my boat used this way....last year i just left it and sailed, couldnt be bothered not to get the boat on the water as soon as possible. Im trying to figure out the best way to repair it, as i do not have the original piece that has chipped off...i was thinking of just sanding the brake down so its a smooth break, and cutting and sanding a piece of wood to fit the spot (what type would be best??mahgoany?) and im not sure how this will fit with the class rules. I also wouldnt mind any sugesstions on the best type of epoxy to use, that is readily available in Canada.

You are in luck because i have extensive practice with this issue. My Centerboard had a large chip taken out of the trailing edge, my buddies rudder had the same thing happen, and a large piece of the tip of my rudder chipped off. The key is marine Tex. Its a epoxy resion that you can get at westmarine or a boat shop. What you have to do is cut out a piece of stiff paper with a coating on it, a cereal box works fine. Tape it to one side of the chip, and fold it over, making a band aid over the chip. un fold it again and mix up the Marine Tex, and slop it in, trying pack it in, to get all the cracks, than fold the paper back over, tape it and let it sit for a day. Once its sat, take off the paper (the repair should be dry) and Youve got some sanding to do...

I don´t know if its legal, (I suppose it is cause I've actually used it for little chips) Here in Spain is easy to find a mixture of fiberglass and resin that comes in tubes (just like toothpaste) and is very easy to use. the brand name is CEYS... There are also epoxy sticks that you brake and mix and work fine.

Here is a piece on daggerboard and rudder repair forn the Cedar Point Websire:

Daggerboard Repair

I can tell you the method that I worked out which is light years better than the fumbling approach I used to use. I use Marine Tex (I now buy the large size!). Other supplies needed are packing tape (use clear packing tape so you can see what you're doing), denatured alcohol (or boat stove alcohol, same thing), utility knife and sandpaper (400 wet/dry for finish sanding, and coarser like 120 grit for preparing the area and sanding excess extending beyond edge of blade after Marine Tex cures and 220 if you have more than a little sanding to do).

Break loose any chips. Use a utility knife to cut away cracked gelcoat so the gel coat is cut vertically down to the fiberglass laminate. The bond to gelcoat is not nearly as good as to the fiberglass so avoid "feathering" the gelcoat prior to repair. Clean area with alcohol to remove any waxes, oils, salt and moisture. Mix MarineTex on a piece of cardboard with a wooden paint stirrer or with a wide screwdriver. Mush onto one side of area so it stands just above the surrounding area. Stick packing tape onto the area away from the edge of the board and as you press it in place smush any excess MarineTex towards edge. You can run your fingernail around on top of the tape to encourage the MarineTex to fill any voids or bubbles. At this point you should have Marine Tex sticking out beyond edge of board. Flip board over and do same on this side. When you are done the tape should be stuck on both sides of board covering MarineTex and protruding out beyond edge of board and stuck to itself adhesive side to adhesive side.

Marine Tex will cure nicely this way. Give it over night to fully harden. Then peel off tape and you should barely have to sand except for amount extending beyond edge of board which will sand very quickly.

Wrap 400 grit around a flat block of wood when sanding to get a flush, flat surface. Use 120 to "cut back" the amount extending beyond the edge of board first, then finish sand with 400. If you overdid the amount you put on you can remove the excess quicker with 220 grit before switching over to 400 for final sanding.

Clean up with the denatured alcohol, which is a much better and more friendly solvent for epoxies (incl MarineTex) than are other solvents such as acetone.

The beauty of the packing tape is that it supports the MarineTex and lets you get complete coverage at near net shape so only minimal sanding and no additional filling will be required. I rarely have to do a second application even for a major repair. Good luck!

jbeckwith said:

Here is a piece on daggerboard and rudder repair forn the Cedar Point Websire:
... Stick packing tape onto the area away from the edge of the board and as you press it in place smush any excess MarineTex towards edge. ... Give it over night to fully harden. Then peel off tape and you should barely have to sand except for amount extending beyond edge of board which will sand very quickly.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that tip, the tape works nicely. I used regular scotch tape, one layer at a time, like shingles. The first layers are along the edges of the repair on the sides of the board, the last layers meet edgewise in the middle of the the patch, along the edge of the board. The tape shapes the putty and keeps it from sagging while it sets.

btw, this is my first post. Just wanted to say hi to everybody. Have a fun season.